ROCK PRINCESS

Once upon a time there was a princess...

Well, so continues the saga of our beloved Princess...

Her beauty and fairness spanned far and wide. Her fairy godmother, Vera Wang, had already created a magic potion for her called  'Princess'. This potion was fruity and whimsical with water lily, guava and chocolate and other magical secret ingredients.

 It was well received by all, and the princess became the
most loved in all the lands. Wherever she went this mystical scent followed her and it made the people swoon with delight especially the visiting Prince’s from the neighbouring Kingdoms. It was all’ sugar and spice and everything nice’ but the princess became bored, after all she was still young and free and wanted something more challenging.

 She wanted to experience the wild side of life, have a little fun, and get into a bit of mischief.

Rock music, short skirts with silver chains, black platform shoes, untamed  hair with black eye-liner and pouty lips. She wanted a scent that would express her inner wild child, her free spiritedness and girliness. After all she was still all ‘sugar and spice' but just a little less nice.





Vera Wang famed godmother, created ‘Rock Princess’. 

This elixir is still sweet with top notes of raspberry, peach and bergamot blended together with heliotrope, rose, jasmine and lily and warmed by the cashmerwood, musk, iris and coconut. All this goodness was poured into a black heart sprinkled with diamond dust and was crowned with silver.

Never judge a book by its cover. Rock Princess may look a little wilder, darker with its alternative attitude but on the inside it’s still sweet and innocent. A total contradiction in terms.

But isn't that what youth is all about?


Written by Lily





Rock Princess available @ Myer Melbourne

GUERLAIN LA PETITE ROBE NOIR 2

For the past two centuries the House of Guerlain has produced some of Frances most renown and respected perfumes.
Established in 1828  by Pierre-Francois Pascal Guerlain whose humble beginnings were in the trade of toiletries.Pierre-Francois eventually began to create his own scents which became popular with many of the elite of France and as expected, became the official Royal Perfumer for most of the Crown heads of Europe.

By 1853 Pierre Guerlain created Eau de Cologne Imperial for Empress Eugeine (wife of Napoleon III) and encased this aromatic citrus in the  iconic 'bee bottle' ( designed after the golden bee crest of Napoleon III) which has become synonymous with the Aqua Allegoria  range.


From this point the House of Guerlain is handed down to his son Aime Guerlain ,and in 1889 Aime  created  the first 'modern' scent Jicky.This is Guerlain's first unisex scent and the first which uses synthetics in it's composition. A citrus fresh scent with a floral heart and a warm leathery sillage.The name Jicky is allegedly derived from a girl Aime was besotted with while studying in England.  Aime Guerlain is also credited for creating the secret base for all the Guerlain scents known as 'Guelinades'.

Jacques Guerlain

By 1906 his nephew Jacques Guerlain launched some of the most impressive and widely known masterpieces such as Apres L'ondee, L'Heure Bleu (1912), Mitsouko(1919) Vol de Nuit and Shalimar (1933). It is said that Shalimar was created by accident. Jacques Guerlain poured an entire sample of vanillin into a bottle of Jicky and Shalimar was born.

Shalimar

To all who revere perfume Shalimar has become the most

 popular and well known scent of it's time.When we think of Guerlain we immediately think of Shalimar.
Jacques Guerlain was inspired by the tale of  Mumtaz Mahal wife of Emperor Shah Jahan who was so loved and adored by him that he built the Taj Mahal and the Gardens of Shalimar for her.
It is a purely seductive blend of lemon, bergamot with a floral heart of jasmine, rose, iris, warmed by opopanax, incense tonka bean and completely enveloped by tempting vanilla.


By 1956 Jean Paul Guerlain, grandson of Jacques Guerlain continued the family tradition by assisting in the  creation of Ode. Jean Paul went on to create his first scent, Vertiver by 1959 followed by Habit Rouge (1965) Chamade (1969) Eau de Guerlain (1974) Nahema (1979) Derby (1985) and Samsara (1989).All of which are eternal classics. In 1994 the Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy  Group (LVMH) acquired the House of Guerlain as Jean Paul was close to retirement. He continued to create fragrances till 2008 at which point Thierry Wasser continued on as  Guerlain House Perfumer.

With the induction of fresh talent to Guerlain, Thierry Wasser  has established his own cache of popular scent for Guerlain such as Idylle, Aqua Allegoria Flora Nymphea, Guerlain Homme, Shalimar Ode de la Vanille, Shalimar Initial L'Eau and La Petite Robe Noir, to name just a few.
To keep up with the changing modern youth but still as not to offend the well established classics such as Shalimar, Thierry Wasser's creative scent La Petite Robe Noir and following this, La Petite Robe Noir 2 has quickly become the modern Ambassador for Guerlain.

Thierry Wasser

 The first introduction into this modern scent in 2009
is  a gourmand blend of mouth watering liquorice, macrons, vanilla, almonds with a spicy sprinkling of patchouli ,anise and tea on a Turkish delight  of rose,musk and lemon. A scent more worthy for a princess than a temptress.

The newest Le Petit Robe Noir 2 (2011) is a chic and playful like the contemporary French woman. She is adorned in the dulcet smell of Paris cafe's with it's citrus, berries and sweet marshmallow, walking along the avenues of blossoming Iris, violet leaf  and orange blossoms mingling with the street scent of sandalwood, musk and leather, smartly dressed in her 'little black dress',  heels and an alluring smile of red lipstick.

Written by Lily

Guerlain is available @ Myer Melbourne & David Jones Melbourne

FRANCIS KURKDJIAN

Francis kurkdjian began his young adult life ( age 15) as a fashion designer but discovered that this was not his calling. He was immediately attracted to perfume and at this youthful age decided that this would be his destiny.

To Kurkdjian the relationship between fashion and perfume is a close one. He could dress people in scent just as he would have in clothing.To Francis perfume was not just an aqueous blend of essential oils and alcohol but a an essence which connects with emotion, beauty and art.
By 23 he became a Junior Perfumer at the house of Givaudan and created the now best known Jean Paul Gaultier scent 'Le Male'. From this point till 2009 he created scents for respected designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Ferragamo, Guerlain , Giorgio Armani and Elie Saab.

Some of his creations are:
Acqua di Parma
Iris Nobile
(co-signed with Françoise Caron), 2004
Christian Lacroix
C'est la fête
(co-signed with Jean Jacques), 2007
Dior
Cologne Blanche and Eau Noire, 2005
Davidoff
Silver Shadow, 2005
Elie Saab
Le Parfum, 2011
Le Parfum, eau de toilette, 2012
Elizabeth Arden
Green Tea, 1999
Emanuel Ungaro
Apparition
(co-signed with Françoise Caron), 2004
Le Parfum, 2007
Escada
Lily Chic, year 2000 Edition
Ferragamo
F by Ferragamo, 2006
Guerlain
Rose Barbare, 2005
Giorgio Armani
Armani Mania, 2002
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Le Mâle, 1995 - Fragile,1999
Gaultier Puissance2, 2005
Fleur du Mâle, 2007
Eau d'Amour, 2008
Ligne de beauté Monsieur (co-signed with Nathalie Le Cann), 2008
MaDame, 2008
Joop !
Muse, 2004
Juliette Has a Gun
Miss Charming, 2007
Lady Vengeance, 2007
Kenzo
KenzoKi Lotus blanc, 2002
Lancôme
Miracle Homme, 2001
Miracle Homme l'Aquatonic, 2003
Lanvin
Rumeur, 2006
Narciso Rodriguez
For Her
(co-signed with Christine Nagel), 2003
For Him, 2007
Van Cleef & Arpel
Summer and Autumn, 2004
Versace
Versus Time for pleasures, 2002
Jeans couture Glam, 2003
Yves Saint Laurent
Kouros Eau d'été, 2002
Kouros Cologne Sport, 2004.


Francis Kurkdjian took all this experience and knowledge to a higher level and launched his own bespoke atelier and like the fashion designer within him he opened his ready-to-wear perfume line by 2009 aptly called Maison  Francis Kurkdjian.

Francis Kurkdjian and travelling trunk

His 'haute couture' range of scents are for those who appreciate a private sitting with Francis, either to create a personal signature scent or a scent for special occasions. He would bring with him to the appointment his travelling trunk of all things perfume and mix (like an alchemist ) a personal concoction for the respective client.

Francis Kurkdjian treats perfume like fashion. his mood boards are filled with inspiration from anything that attracts him, from the colour of a box to the sound of music or the smell of fresh linen .

Le Luce degli Innocenti, Firenze

His creativity extends to far more than perfume in a bottle. Kurkdjian has combined performance art with perfume.One example is his 'Luce degli Innocenti' in 2011. A pious display of 800 powdery woody fruit scented lit candles on the floor of one of Florence' s most beautiful churches ,St Maria of the Innocent.

Kurkdjian has managed many of these spectacular events throughout his career. His creativity is at a constant flow and never at a standstill. By 2012 he released yet another perfume or 'story' as he likes to describe it,simply names 'Oud'.

The elegance of this modestly named scent is in the well balanced uncomplicated blend.
 Kurkdjian has added elemi (a citrus resin) to the purest form of Laotian Oud. This Oud is not medicinal or overly leathery but softer almost vanilla is tone, cedar and saffron compliment and add to the woodiness of this Oud while a subtle softer patchouli support the structure or heart . It is said that Kurkdjian created this Oud after dreaming of a splendid white palace in the Sahara desert.
Francis kurkdjian's Oud is an exclusively alluring  experience.




written by Lily

Maison Francis Kurkdjian available @ Mecca Myer Melbourne.

SERGE LUTENS

At the tender  age of 14 Serge Lutens  was apprenticed to a hairdresser in France and his love of hair, makeup and photography blossomed .In 1962 at the age of 20 he impressed Vogue with not only his photographic skills but his ability to create a complete look though hair and make-up.

His photographic theatricality lead him to work with some of the best known photographers of the time such as Guy Bourdin, Richard Avedon and Bob Richardson.

In 1967 he began work as the Artistic Director with the House of Dior and for the next 12years his genius made Dior the beauty trendsetters to be envied.

Photography for Dior

Lutens unique style of photography was inspired by artists such as Pablo Picasso, Claude Monet, Georges Pierre Seurat and Amedeo Modigliani. By the mid 1970’s his photographs and two short film were being shown at the Guggenheim Museum and Cannes Film Festival.

The Japanese cosmetics House of Shiseido quickly took note of this new creative force and in the 1980’s hired Lutens to create the now very recognisable image for their new cosmetic line and their first scent ‘Nombre Noir’. Lutens created the complete ‘look’ and to this day Shiseido is famous for the style he created for them. ‘Les Salons du Palais Royale ‘(the perfume house conceived & designed by Lutens for Shiseido) is a monument to Lutens exceptional innovative intellect and attraction to alluring beguiling scent.

le Salons du Palais Royale

His artist genius is well respected and Lutens has won various awards for his work and talent, such as two ‘Lion D’Or’ at the International Advertising Film Festival, the Talent D’Or and Commandeur in the ‘Order of Arts and Letters’ by the French Government. In 2001 to 2004 he won the Fifi Award 4 times for his “olfactory Maze’ in Lille, France an arrangement of concrete and lights where scents such as earth, leaves and rain from Lille where he was born were reconstructed.

Serge Lutens has been living in Marrakesh, Morocco since 1974 and the underlining intoxicating scents and beauty of this place is what inspires his perfume line.

Perfume was not his first love but it has become a strong an addiction as his love for photography and beauty. To quote Lutens; “The real great perfumers are not perfumers,” Lutens says. “They are the bees, the winds, the rivers and other things that carry and mix scents in space.”

home in Marrakesh

You can see the passion for his beloved Marrakesh in most of Lutens classics... e.g.

Ambre Sultan

Arabie

Muscs Kublai khan

El Attarine

Fumerie Turque

Sarrassins

Serge Noir

Chypre Rouge

Cuir Mauresque

Chergui

Daim Blond

Cedre

Borneo 1834

Feminite du Bois (originally for Shiseido) 

To experience a Lutens scent is to experience a touch of Eastern Marrakesh with a hint of Oriental Japan.
All 56 scents are segregated into 4 collections,namely.. Collection Beige, Collection Ephemere, Collection Noire and Diffusion Perfumes.

In 2012 the  latest addition to these collections, Serge Lutens in collaboration with Christopher Sheldrake (a 'nose' in his own right)and since the release of the most talked about Tubereuse Criminelle in 1999 which is described as a  medicinal heady tuberose scent with a top note of surgical clove, nutmeg and lush tuberose,faintly blended with jasmine,orange blossom and warmed by musk and vanilla,  Serge Lutens has release two more intriguing scents , Vitriol D'Oeillet and L'eau Froide.

Vitriol D'Oeillet (angry carnation) opens with an array of medicinal spices such as clove, camphor, pink pepper, black pepper and biting cayenne surrounding the sweetly scented vintage carnation and iris on a bed of cedar.

L'eau Froide (cold water) a monastic, holy water coolness of olibanum (frankincense) sea water, mint, vertiver, incense and musk.

 Serge Lutens scents are not for the shy or inhibited. They are unique scents of passion,beauty and emotion.






written by Lily






Serge Lutens available @ Mecca Myer Melbourne...
 www.Luckyscent .com

LUBIN

 Parfum Lubin is one of the oldest establish houses in perfumery.

It was founded by Pierre Francois Lubin in 1798, around the time of the French revolution. The most popular items for the aristocracy of the time were the perfumed ribbons, rice powdered balls and masks that were very popular with the young and frivolous aristocrats of the time. With the 'joie de vivre' and endless elaborate and extravagant  balls and social events amongst the royals of France Parfum Lubin was in high demand.

Historically Lubin  scents were worn by many in the Imperial court, Empress  Josephine, the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte, Princess Borghese (Napoleon's sister) Queen Marie Antoinette and her only surviving daughter were amongst the many clients of Lubin. It was only natural that by the end of the French monarchist reign that Lubin's begot the title of 'Official Perfumer of the French Royal Court', and as Lubin's popularity climaxed,  he became the official perfumer to King George IV of England in 1821.
By 1830 with all the turmoil of revolution in Europe, Perfume Lubin's became the first French perfume house to successfully export to America.

In the 1920's Nuit de Longchamp was released in America and was an immediate success.A heady chypre floral blend of exotic ylang, ylang, jasmine, orange blossom iris, rose spiced with cardamom & nutmeg, warmed by patchouli & sandalwood, ending with a classy edge of vertiver and oak moss. A scent most sought after by the society ladies in America of the time.



Luckily, Parfum Lubin survived the second world war and by 1955 Henri Giboulet (re known 'nose' for Lubin) created Gin Fizz as an homage to the beauty and talent of  Grace Kelly. The name was taken from a fashionable drink of that era, which for Henri encapsulated all that was glamorous in American Elite.
The scent is a refreshing top note of of juniper berry, bergamot,orange blossom, vertiver oak moss and lemon,softened by the sweet floral or rose, lily and jasmine with a hint of warmth from musk.


In 1968 L'eau Neuve became a rite of passage for many young non conformists breaking through the class structure of their forefathers..

 With it's citrus  earthly appeal of bergamot,lemon, orange, oak moss, rose, jasmine & cedar, infused with lavender, marjoram, sage & coriander and unpretentiously laced with patchouli sandalwood & musk. It quickly made it's name as the scent of the 'flower children'.

As the new sexual revolution gained momentum L de Lubin was created. To keep in tone with the new free spiritedness,this scent of intoxicating rose, iris,jasmine,heliotrope, ylang ylang, gardenia, spiced with clove, sandalwood, patchouli,vanilla and white pepper , refreshed by lemon and soften with musk and rosewood.became the favourite for the new emerging 'pop' idols and disco divas of the early 1970's.




By 2000 Parfum Lubin was but a mere version of its glorious beginnings and close to bankruptcy. It was saved by Gilles Thevenin and his investors by the re-release of two of Lubins original scents, namely  Idole inspired by the travels of adventurous women such as Amelia Earhart and Black Jade a replica of a scent invented for Queen Marie Antoinette.

The new version of Idole (first created in 1962 for men)has been restructured by the original creator, Olivia Giacobetti.This version has amber, labdanum and incense added to it's original boozy opening of rum,orange, saffron, amber and caraway , leading into a sweet gourmand of palm. sugar, wood notes and frankincense, supported by the headiness of sandalwood, leather, incense and labdanum.A unisex scent worthy of explorers and adventurers..

Black Jade, the name derived from the black vial of perfume worn around the neck of Marie Antoinette which  was filled with a scent encompassing the essence of the then French gardens thick with the aroma of rose ,jasmine and bergamot, melded with  spices from the new eastern French colonies such as cinnamon, incense, sandalwood and patchouli, sweetened with vanilla and amber was resurrected  in remembrance of the  tragic aristocratic French Queen.

From the revolution in France to now Lubin has en captured the essence of each era in a bottle... a most remarkable achievement..







written by Lily



Lubin scents available @ Agence de parfum,David Jones Melbourne.

EN PASSANT

En Passant is one of the many scents available under the guise of Frederic Malle.
Frederic Malle's motto was "create without boundaries" and asked a group of talented re-known perfumers which included Olivia, to create the scents which are now available through Frederic Malle. This suited Olivia Giacobetti perfectly as her scents have always been unique.

Olivia Giacobetti, born in 1966, classed as one of modern times best 'noses' and has a successful range of scents in her portfolio. Olivia became fascinated by perfume at the age of 9 after seeing the French film , Le Sauvage (about a perfumer) played by Yves Montand  so by 1990 Olivia established her own perfume company called Iskia and is now Creative Director at Lubin.

Some of her creations are......

For L'Artisan Giacobetti created......
L'Eau del Artisan (1993)
Premier Figuier (1994)
The pour un Ete (1996)
Drole de Rose (1996)
L'eau de Fleuriste (1997)
Navegar (1998)
Dzing (1999)

Passage d'Enfer (1999)
Fleur de Carotte (2000)
Tea for Too (2000)
The des Sables (2001)
Un Bouquet un Mai (2001)
Jour de Fete (2004)
Extrait de Songes (2005)

Dyptique creations.......
Phylosikos (1996)
Ofresia (1996)
Opone (2001)

OTHER
En Passant  for Frederic Malle (2000)
Andree Putmann Preparation Parfumee(2001)
Iunx for Shiseido (2003)
Costes with Rami Mekdachi (2005)
Cinq Monde Eau Egyptienne (2005)
Costes men & women (2004)
Honore de Pres (all the scents)(2008) 
Idole for Lubin (2011)

Her minimalistic approach to perfume has gained her much respect. Giacobetti is a true olfactorist by the real sense of the word.
What inspires a perfumer to create?
In Giacobetti's world her inspirations comes from nature itself. Olivia's creations are never too involved with too many ingredients. Giacobetti believes that the scent should remain true to its initial inspiration whether it be the milky sap from a ripe fig or a field of white lilacs. For Giacobetti perfume is entwined with emotion. The remembrance of Incense in a church from childhood or bouquet of flowers bought at a florist shop.

En Passant , with it's three simple notes of lilac, cucumber and wheat is just one of those beloved memories and cherished emotions.
It's a joyous scent remembered from walking past a field of lilacs in Toronto (where she lived at the time) and the  aroma of the nearby bakery on a cool spring morning just after the rain. Wearing it just makes you want to smile....

written by Lily


EN Passant  Frederic Malle &
Dyptique available @ Mecca Myer Melbourne
Idole Lubin available @ Agence de parfum David Jones Melbourne
Honore de Pres scents available @ Galerie de Parfum Myer Melbourne
L'Artisan available @ Galerie de Parfum Myer Melbourne

ETRO PAISLEY

Jacopo, Ippolito, Kean & Veronica Etro

When you think of paisley print you immediately think of the House of Etro.
Their name to fame was the introduction of the paisley print to the world of home decorating and fashion.The choice for this particular motif is a historical and spiritual one. Paisley was chosen for it's connection to all things natural and  is a pattern from the ancient Mesopotamian era c.a 5300BC. It symbolizes the shoot of the date palm emanating from the tree of life.An ancient belief about where all life began.It has a deep sacred link with mother earth and the sacred Goddess of all life.

Tree of Life

In 1968 Gimmo Etro founded the House of Etro, (now run by his four children).Etro produced high quality natural fabrics and in 1981made it's debut in furnishing. Each descendant has a particular role to play in making the house of Etro productive and on going.Ippolito is the CEO of the company,Jacopo is the expert on textiles, Kean is the creative force behind the men's wear collections and Veronica is the designer of the women's wear collections. The paisley print (which to this day is very sort after) became the highly recognised identity for the House of Etro.In 1984 Etro launched their leather goods which naturally had paisley as it's trade mark.

By 1986 Etro home accessories completed there collection and
in 1990 Etro delved into fashion with their first pret a porter range for men and women. This instantly gained them recognition as a stylish and elegant  label not only in home furnishings but in the fashion trade. It was only a  natural  progression that Etro looked into not only home scents such as fragrant candles but perfume.

Fall collection 2012

There are 24 scents available to this date but the most definitive is aptly called 'Paisley'.
'Paisley' is an enigmatic fragrance with spiced fruit top notes of bergamot, blackcurrant and cardamom, harmoniously balanced with ylang ylang, jasmine and pink pepper, ending with a mystical sillage of patchouli, vanilla and ambergris.











A  scent delicately balanced between  feminine temptress and the strong spiritual goddess which lays within.

Etro perfumes available @ Galerie de Parfum, Myer Melbourne,

ROMANTINA or LADY VENGEANCE EXTREME

To all lovers of Juliette has a Gun range, creator Romano Ricci has added two new additions.

Lady Vengeance stands alone as one of Romano Ricci's treasured 'Juliette'.

Hot on the trail of Lady Vengeance comes the release of Lady Vengeance Extreme  followed by the release of  Romantina, named after himself (Romano and his beloved sister Tina). A timeless tribute to sibling affection and an affirmation of the loving strong women in his life.

If you thought Lady Vengeance was the all time seductress of scent with her enticing chypre blend of rose, patchouli and vanilla. Romano Ricci reinvented our beloved heroine to be more sassy and bold with the added punch of patchouli as the top note. Our heroine is still elegant and sensual, encased in her black cylindrical bottle with blood red writing, but with a slight new naughty edge which makes her so much more alluring and beguiling.

Romantina, on the other hand, sheathed in white with her name tastefully scrolled in light red, is Juliette has a Gun’s first musky floral. Innocent in nature with the opening note of musk, orange blossom and a bouquet of lily of the valley, iris, rose and jasmine. vanilla and patchouli lends it a warmth to counteract  the chypre fresh  feel of the vertiver.

 This Juliette is playful and  adventurous.She will love you or leave you as long as she can be with you.

The heroine in this story is an involved  'Juliette' who fall in love for a local 'ragazzo' (boy)  in the eternally romantic city of Rome but leaves him the next day as to always keep the day of love they shared a delicious memory, as if it was a scene from a
passionate Italian movie.
Just another added chapter to the many characters and adventures of our cherished Juliette.....

written by Lily

                                                                                         Juliette has a Gun
                                                                                         Lady vengeance Extreme

                                                                                         Romantina

                                                                                         Available @ Agence de Parfum David Jones.
                                                                                                             Galerie de Parfum Myer Melbourne
                                                                                                             klein's Perfumery Melbourne

VERA WANG PRINCESS

Once upon a time in a land far far away... There lived a princess...

 All princesses are beautiful and fair.This princess wanted her own designer fragrance to capture and allure her Prince charming.
 What would it smell like??

 She asked her fairy Godmother to create her a special scent. Her Fairy Godmother, Vera Wang was reknown for conjuring up the most exquisite bridal gowns in all the land as well as an array of intoxicating potion. Let’s see a touch of mandarin with a sprinkle of litchi, add a hint of apple and a dusting of apricot and water lily. Stir gently so as not to bruise the exotic fruits. Mix well with guava, tiare flower and tuberose. Brew it slowly and then blend with liquid  chocolate, vanilla essence and amber. Cool and clear the purple liquid and enclose it within the princess’s heart.

 This magical elixir will surely turn heads as she wears it close to her being. A scent of love, innocence, youth and sugar cookies. Prince Charming could not possible resist her now!!!!

This is what Princesses are made of.....

That is, in the land of fairy tales.....

And they lived happily ever after......



Written by Lily


Vera Wang Princess
Available @ Fragrance  Heaven
                    Myer Melbourne