AMOUAGE HONOUR WOMAN

In 1983 Muscat became the centre for a new perfume house called Amouage. It was founded by His Highness Sayyid Hamad bin Hamoud al bu Said whose dream was to reinvent and reawaken the art of Arabian perfume making to the West. Arabian perfumery has been greatly regarded throughout history even by the best French creators. They are reknown for their exotic (such as Oud, Frankincense & Myrrh) and purest ingredients. Amouage brings to the West the best of Middle Eastern perfumery.

In 1988 the famed nose Guy Roberts’s creator of Caleche for Hermes, Dioressence for Dior and Gucci No 1 to name a few in his entourage, made the first scent for Amouage called Gold. This glamorous white floral laced with myrrh, rose and incense was a successful beginning to a range of stunning fragrances, from Gold in 1988 to The Library Collection in 2010. Now in 2011 Amouage have created Honour woman/man.

These are not humble or understated fragrances but regal and fascinating. There are no shy wallflowers here. The complete range is synonymous with style, luxury and class. There is a scent for any wearer or elegant occasion. Honour is no different.

Honour woman was created by Christopher Chong the creative Director in France as a sequel to the tragic opera of Madam Butterfly. A story rife with lust, love and honour. A past tale of an aristocratic Japanese girl called Cho Cho San (Madam Butterfly) who gives up her son to the heartless American Lieutenant and commits suicide to uphold her family’s honour. Cho Cho Sans son is now adult and is haunted by the death of his mother. He recalls that moment and speaks to her ghost to try to come to terms with the untimely passing of his mother and to attempt to quieten the conflict within him. A very heart wrenching sequel to such a poignant tale.

Honour opens with a bitter sweet blend of rhubarb and white flowers of gardenia, tuberose and lily of the valley touched with the piquancy of pepper and greenness of coriander. It is lulled into calm by amber and opoponax and strengthened by leather and incense. A green floral with a warm heart and a lingering scented memory.

It truly does justice to a moving and heart breaking  tale.

Written by Lily

Amouage is available through Agence de Parfum @ David Jones Melbourne.

            

THE SACRED FIG

It has been widely disputed amongst biblical scholars that it may have been a fig and not an apple that was eaten by Adam & Eve in the Garden of Eden. Amid these learned academics the bone of contention is that God created the fig not the apple as the centre piece and ‘tree of life and knowledge’ in the biblical garden.

Genesis 3:6 states:’ but of the fruit of the tree which is in the midst of the garden, God  said: Ye shall not eat of it, ' And when the woman saw that the tree was good for food, and that it was a delight to the eyes, and that the tree was to be desired to make one wise, she took of the fruit thereof, and did eat; and she gave also unto her husband with her, and he did eat.’

Not only is this a hotbed debate, but we are also told in the Bible, Genesis 3:7, that Adam & Eve covered their nakedness with fig leaves. So powerful and majestic is this tree, with its lush green, sharp woody scented leaves and sweet honeyed fruit, that throughout history it has been widely revered and held sacred.

The Fig has been with man as early as 288BC, the earliest recorded planting by King Tissa occurred at the Anuradhapura Temple. This ancient Fig is holy to Hindus, Buddhists and Muslims and is known as the Sacred Fig. Originating from the Middle East and spreading through into East Asia, the Fig is symbol for long-life happiness, prosperity and fertility.

For centuries man has nourished himself with the fruit of this generous tree. It has shaded him from many hot arid sunny days and lulled him to sleep with the intoxicating scent of her foliage and fruit.

In Ancient Greece Plato, philosopher and mathematician claimed that the scent of the Fig is a stimulant for memory and intelligence. Going by the immense intelligence that Plato had, one could not be wrong in thinking this may be true.

With all this worship and majesty of this Genus Ficus, how could a modern perfumer not be intrigued by the reverent fig? How could one not want, or desire to create a scent from this opulent plant?

The first sole Fig scent was created in 1994 for L’Artisan by Olivia Giacobetti. It was called Premier Figuier. Up until that time, fig was not really considered as a main ingredient in scent.

The central attraction in Premier Figuier is the fig; sweet, woody fresh, of course, but Olivia Giacobetti's  aim was to produce a Grecian summer holiday in a bottle. She achieved this by blending fig leaf with the mouth watering fig fruit, sandalwood, lime, coconut and almond milk to recreate the fresh sea breeze while sitting under a shady fig tree on a warm balmy day.

Not too often in a perfumers lifetime do they create a scent that has that ‘WOW’ factor, this was one of those moments. Olivia Giacobetti began a new trend that many other ‘noses’ would follow.

In 1996 Dyptique with the creative genius of Olivia Giacobetti created Philosykos a blend of three basic notes fig leaves, fig and cedar. This was a fresher aromatic version of her first fig scent created for L’Artisan. Imagine leaning against a marble balcony in a chic Mediterranean resort with the wind sweeping gently through your hair and the scent of ripening fresh figs filtering through a cool subtle breeze. This perfume is not gender specific, not too softly feminine nor sharply masculine, but it has a powerful means of transporting you to another place.

Philosykos

Ten years later in 2006 Acqua di Parma released Fico di Amalfi from their Blu Mediterraneo collection. Compared to Dyptique’s Philosykos this is a very feminine, fruity fig. Acqua di Parma has looked at the fig and has interpreted it from yet another perspective. This fig is juicy, dulcet and floral. The top note of various citrus gives a fresh start but then as its worn it develops into a spiced fruit by the addition of pink pepper, fig leaf and jasmine and as it begins to settle the warmth of musk and cedar is slightly sweetened by the fig nectar.

So the fascination with fig continues and in 2010 Annick Goutal released Ninfeo Mio, an ethereal wood nymph scent if there ever was one. No self respecting fairy or sprite could possible resist wearing this. It was the creation from the imagination of Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen. They wanted to create a scent of a garden a friend told them about that was in Rome called Giardino di Ninfa. Topped with citrus and fig, sweetened with lavender, the addition of wood notes and a hint of musk this fragrance will transport you to this garden in a magical instance.

Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio

If this wasn't enough to intrigue you into at least sampling one of these scents Thierry Mugler of the renowned Angel (created in 1992, it being the first authentic ‘gourmand’ and a new classification of perfume invented,) released Womanity. In 2010 fig has made a comeback in a most unusual way. Thierry with the assistance of the perfumer Mane created a salty sweet fig essence. It is best described as an essence for its forever lasting silage. This is an unusual scent a totally sugary sweet fig comparable to a saccharine drenched baked fig tart, which has accidently been smothered in salty Beluga caviar, and served on a country style wooden board.

What more can be said about this fragrance? If the liquor itself doesn't amaze and fascinate you, the bottle surely will with its Gothic metal overtone and pink liquid.

I truly believe our love affair with the fig is destined to continue..

                  L'Artisan available @ Galerie de Parfume Myer Melbourne
                       Annick Goutal & Acqua di Parma available @ David Jones Melbourne
                       Womanity available @ David Jones & Myer Melbourne
                        Dyptique Phylosikos available @ Mecca Myer melbourne 

TOM FORD WHITE MUSK COLLECTION

When you think of Tom Ford, images such as George Clooney in ‘Ocean’s Eleven’, Cary Grant in ‘To Catch a Thief’ come to mind. Tom Ford was and is the ‘Pin up boy’ for fashion to this day. His charm, elegant and impeccable well dressed sense of style is his trade mark.

Texan born and the Creative Director for both (and successfully so) Gucci and YSL Rive Gauche between 1994 to 2004, Tom Ford’s popularity and empire expanded. By 2005 Tom Ford had departed from Gucci and had launched in collaboration with Estee Lauder a limited edition collection of makeup and scents for Estee Lauder.  With the success of this project and the backing of Estee Lauder, Ford in 2006 launched his own Beauty Brand.

 This included a range of scents the first being ‘Black Orchid’ created by the perfume house Givaudan. Housed in a black ribbed bottle with rounded top and gold plaque it’s a rich sensual, dark floral like no other of its time. An exotic blend of fruits, citruses. Gardenia, black orchid, lotus, chocolate, vanilla patchouli, amber and sandalwood. This remarkable scent became a best seller. With this he also launched Tom Ford Private collection. A collection of square heavy black glass decanters with classical gold plaques makes these flacons stylish and sort after.

 Between 2006 to 2010 this collection grew to include some of the most elegant and tasteful fragrances to date. There are now 16 sultry scents in this collection plus 3 in his Men’s range. All of these scents have been created using rare and romantic ingredients. From incenses & Ouds from the Far East, blended with tobacco, leather or rare flower from the islands, the Private Collection’s reputation is one of sultriness and sensuality.

In 2008 Ford was inspired by the patchouli widely used in the 70’s and again with the help from the house of Givaudan White Patchouli was born. Ford wanted a softer more alluring patchouli scent not the usual heady, heavy patchouli of the 70’s.This blend of white flowers, jasmine, rose, coriander, bergamot, peony married with patchouli exudes a light hearted sensual scent which became yet another success for Tom Ford.

In 2009 White Musk Collection was launched, and like its predecessor White Patchouli, these bottles are clear with white caps in contrast to the black of the Private Collection with the same classic gold name plate. Tom Ford used an old 80’s favourite, namely, musk. In the 80’s musk based perfumes were the rage, Dior introduced Poison, Cacharel had Lou Lou, YSL had Opium all these exquisite classic scents were heavy with musk and vanilla. Rich opulent oriental fragrances reminiscent of Moroccan markets and exotic Middle Eastern dancers. White Musk Collection has some of this exotic connection but in all these 4 musk scents have a velvet, provocative, carnal tone about them.

Urban Musk with its ambrette seed, white pepper, cumin, honey, jasmine, plum and musk is pure passion in a bottle. There is nothing coy or shy about this scent. It stirs the fire from within of erotic pleasures. This is the dominatrix of the 4 scents complete with leather and whip.

White Suede with Bulgarian rose, thyme, saffron, lily of the valley, suede, leather, amber, sandalwood and musk is elegant and classy. The lofty heiress with her polite decorum. Feminine and at the same time sensual. A completely alluring scent.

Pure Musk with ylang orpur, white pepper, jasmine, bergamot, lily of the valley, orris, tonka bean, beeswax and musk. Imagine a scent that reminds you of newly cleaned skin. A wake up call of the senses with its freshly washed appeal of pure linen and a playful lazy day at home.

Jasmine Musk with ylang ylang, jasmine, patchouli, orris, vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver, cistus, amber and musk. This is pure femininity. Gregarious, subtle, dulcet and fascinating. This is the scent of every man’s dream girl. Whatever her look, this is the scent of the modern woman.

This collection will touch and entice anyone who is after a musk scent for any occasion, from the romantic and personal to the clean and classy...


Written by Lily




Tom Ford available @ David Jones Melbourne

BY KILIAN - POETRY & COGNAC

Kilian Hennessy is a name well known and highly regarded in the world of fine cognac. He was the fifth generation Hennessy to guide this long established company (founded by Richard Hennessy in 1765) to amalgamate with Moet Chandon house, famed for their high quality champagne to create Moet Hennessy.This company  in 1987 became the Luis Vuitton-Moet Hennessy (LVMH) luxury group. This great man was the grandfather of Kilian Hennessy perfume creator and lover of 18^th & 19^th century French literature.

Spending time on his grandfathers grand estate in his first five years of life, Kilian Hennessy absorbed and become accustomed to the smells of wooden barrels, macerating fruits and fragrant scents of smooth vintage cognacs. He also became infatuated by the French literature available to him in his grandfather’s luxurious and well read library.

In 2007 his acquired tastes for dark, brooding, romantic French poets such as Baudelaire, Balzac, Verlaine, Maupassant and Rimbaud became the centrepiece for his own first line of fragrances. All this he stored in his memory and as he grew older he became fascinated by perfume and perfume makers.

While studying communication and language sciences in Sorbonne he began taking classes at Cinquieme Sens, a perfume school in Paris, and then later graduated from Firmenich. From this point he began to compose and market perfumes for houses such as Christian Dior, Paco Rabanne, Alexander McQueen and Giorgio Armani.

Kilian’s aim was to produce scents of the highest quality. He wanted to craft from an ‘old school’ point of view such as the illustrious Chanel No 5, Christalle, Dior’s Eau Savage, Diorissimo, Rochas Femme and all the vintage Guerlain e.g. Shalimar. Nahema, L’heure Bleue, Mitsouko, to name a few.

He dedicated himself to creating his own collection of scents merging French literature and the aromas of his heritage. With the partnership of Calice Asancheyev – Becker and Sidonie Lancesseur, Kilian created scents which he named L’oeuvre Noire (the Black Masterpieces).

These he dissected into three factions:  feminine, masculine and unisex.

The feminine scents;

 Ingénues - honeyed and seductive tones.

Prelude to Love (Calice Asancheyev – Becker).

 Top notes of Seville oranges, Amalfi lemons and bergamot, followed by zesty ginger, pepper, orange blossom and neroli and finishing with soft iris.

This scent’s freshness and purity recalls the budding innocence of first love.

Love (Calice Asancheyev – Becker)

Top notes of citrus, followed by jasmine, iris, rose base notes of vanilla and musk.

Do you recall the first time you discovered you were in love? That butterfly feeling in your naive stomach, the warm glow rushing through your veins??

Beyond Love (Calice Asancheyev – Becker)

Notes of Coconut, Egyptian Jasmine ,tuberose, green tuberose and petals, musk and ambergris.

Complete infatuation, ‘Head over heels’ in love and blinded by passion this scent is as intoxicating as love can get...

Love and Tears (Calice Asancheyev – Becker)

Notes of bergamot, pettitgrain, jasmine, orange blossom, ylang ylang, cypress and labdanum.

Complete surrender to love, these are not tears of sorrow but the elation of knowing true love.

The masculine scents:

Artificial Paradise –mysterious, darker face of loveliness.

A Taste of Heaven (Calice Asancheyev – Becker)

Notes of lavender, green absinthe, oak moss, Turkish rose, orange blossom, vanilla and patchouli.

An ode to his ominous French poets who’s devotion for tragic love and drowning their sorrows in Absinthe was well renowned.

Straight to Heaven (Sidonie Lancesseur)

Notes of Absolute rum, dried fruits, nutmeg, cedar, patchouli, ambergris, vanilla and musk.

Inspired by the genius works of the lyrists of old encouraged by alcohol induced bohemian decadence.

The Unisex scents:

Parisian Orgy - allure, seduction and passion.

Cruel  Intentions (Sidonie Lancesseur)

Notes of bergamot, orange blossom, violet, rose, oudwood, papyrus, vetiver, vanilla and musk.

This is not the scent for coy or shy wall flowers. This is a fragrance of lust, want and yearning. It’s desired and to be desired.

Liaisons Dangereuse (Calice Asancheyev – Becker)

Notes of coconut, plum, blackcurrant, peach, rose, ambrette seed, cinnamon, geranium bourbon, sandalwood, oak moss, vetiver, vanilla and white musk.

The rich fruits in contrast to the earthy woods stir the imaginings of the shadowy lovers embraced in a torrid affair of yearning and longing.

Back to Black Aphrodisiac (Calice Asancheyev – Becker)

Notes of Bergamot, raspberry, cardamom, chamomile, saffron, coriander, almond, vanilla, vetiver, labdanum, patchouli and oak moss.

A scent which you cannot stop wanting. Like a drug it draws you into its intoxicating sweetness and spice only to be cooled by the herbal greenness and sultry woods.

Kilian Hennessy’s first offering to the world of perfume is classy, full bodied, sultry, seductive and chic. Encased in aesthetically pleasing square clean glass flacons with etched details sides, glamorously sheathed in a tasselled box, you cannot help but see this collection as a new line of modern classics in the similar way that Chanel No 5 or Dior Eau Savage has retained its eternal reign supreme.

Written by Lily

By Kilian available @ Luckyscent USA

NOT A PERFUME

Who is Romano Ricci?

Arriving at Klein’s on Brunswick St, the first thing I notice is a large coffee bar at the front of this chic little shop of wonders. As I walk inside there is a friendly atmosphere and people buzzing around with champagne and delicious little pastries. The shop is filled with an alluring scent from the testers on the counter. Romano Ricci is at the back having some pictures taken.

At first I was a little nervous to meet the great grandson of the Ricci clan. Here is Romano Ricci, not only the creator and driving force behind Juliette has a Gun but with a famed heritage that is very impressive. His great grandmother was Nina Ricci, a fashion Icon of the elegant days, his grandfather was Robert Ricci well renowned perfumer and creator of L’Air du temp. What woman, at some stage has not worn or smelled this. If not her, but her mother or grandmother. It is a timeless and elegant perfume.

My first impression of Romano Ricci is meeting a man who is ‘comfortable in his own skin’. Romano is confident, intelligent, earthy, romantic, intense, philosophical, forward thinking and uniquely stylish. As you know, he is always adorned by a smart fedora and vest complete with a red rose on his lapel jacket. A little ‘rock’n’roll, a little rebellious and totally cool. My nervousness melted immediately.

What inspires Romano to create scent?

He is fascinated by characters and personalities. His perfumes participate in the part of role playing. If you want to be impish and innocent you wear Miss Charming, if you want to be sensual and intriguing you wear Lady Vengeance, regal and glamorous like Citizen Queen or genderless like calamity J. In Romano’s words’ ‘We are all crazy in the end, we hide it differently’

Juliette has a Gun is a wardrobe of personalities in which we can hide behind. We can put on the mask of whoever we feel like being at the time. Sounds like fun?

This latest addition to the Juliette has a Gun collection is called ‘Not a Perfume’. Why? Because it basically is not... There are no essential oils in Not a Perfume.

This is a single note scent known as a soliflore synthetic and therefore allergy free (for those who are allergic to flowers, grasses and pollens) But don’t be fooled. This is as complex a perfume as any other on the market, if not more so. Like a chameleon it changes and adapts to the wearer whether it be male or female. No two scents will smell alike. ‘Why’? Because the PH of the skin, the lotions, soaps we use, the food we eat changes with everyone. This is what makes us all individual, and this is what inspires and intrigues Romano Ricci.

Throughout his collections Romano has been very partial to a particular scent. From Miss Charming through to Midnight Oud, the intoxicating aroma of woody muskiness has always been a presence. Whether it has been subdued or loud, think of Miss Charming or Lady Vengeance the musky wood note has been a recurring theme throughout Juliette has a Gun. To Romano Ricci it was only a matter of time before he created a perfume from this one beloved note.

A single note synthetic scent conjures up images of a monotonic aroma without variations. This is very far from the reality of this scent. Even though Not a Perfume has no top, mid or base notes it subtly twists and changes with every passing moment. A well rounded elegant tone, it adheres to the skin like a fine kid glove. This is not a scent that will walk into a room before you but gracefully accompanies you and lets you shine through regardless of gender.

Interviewed & written by Lily

Juliette has a Gun available 
Agence de Parfum  David Jones Melbourne
Galerie de Parfum Myer Melbourne
Klein's Perfumery Fitzroy Melbourne

                                          

                                               

                                              

MOULIN ROUGE 1889

With the event of the industrial revolution and electicity by 1889 Paris had undergone a serious of social changes. The middle class was restless and needed new outlets to entertain themselves with. No longer were nightclubs and caberets exclusive to the elite of Parisian society as the austerity of class distinction was breaking down. New ventures such as the dancehall Elysee Montematre were in full swing and the place to be seen.This was a place where artists such as Emile Zola Guy de Maupassant and Toulouse Lautrec would mingle with the elite and the common. A new dedication to Paris knowns as the EIffel Tower was also being erected. Paris was buzzing with excitement and her populous were on an agenda of fun and frivolity.

Two shrewed businessmen, namely Joseph Oller & Charles Zidler saw this as a challenge and built the Moulin Rouge as a direct competitor and rival to the Elyee Montematre.The Moulin Rouge had to be bigger, better, more colourful and of course, more decadently enticing.

Imagine as you enter through the brightly red painted wind mill facade you hear the high pitched chatter and laughter from all walks of life.The scent of polished timber and tobacco mingle with the ever present and overtly popular alcoholic beverage known as Absinthe  warmed by cinnamon and sweetened with sugar.Ladies in their laced , sequined and feathered finery awash in iris , musk and a hint of patchouli, their rouged lips and powedered faces drenched in excitement . Artists await with paintbrushes and easel, poets and writers with their paper and pen. All eagerly waiting for the night's entertainment known as the scandalous can-can.

From mid stage a row of high kicking dancers and coutesans come dancing forward in a sensual sea of velvet, lace and powder.Their knickerless legs twirling in the air as they finish landing in a full split on the timbered floor.Men are voyeuring and women are shcoked only to return to replicate the experience  once more, again and again. This was one of and the most popular of the grandiose shows at the Mouling Rouge.

Histoires de Parfum have successfully bottled this experience  of la 'Belle Epoch", an era of decadence and scandals.
The top note tantelise  with prune, tangerine and cinnamon remeniscent of the exquisite little tarts and friands served with flowling champagne.
The mid notes of absinthe and Damascan rose moistened by the reddened  lips sipping on the 'Green fairie'.

Base notes of iris, patchouli, musk and fur finally allow you to experience the complete adventure  of an era of  gaiety, playfulness and hedonism which was the Moulin Rouge of 1889.


Written by Lily

Histoires de Parfum Available at Gallerie de Parfum Myer Melbourne